It was about a month ago, when the winter rains finally dwindled to a halt and people started saying “It smells like Christmas” that I realized I had a problem. Born in England and having spent 30 years in Vancouver Canada, I was accustomed to short dark days, bright lights and everything indoors; not this feeling that summer holidays were about to begin! I mumbled “Nonsense, there’s no snow!” and left my friends dumbfounded.

I began to wonder how I would survive a holiday season far from home and family, where tamales rule as ‘haute cuisine’ and turkey doesn’t exist. I downloaded a “Survive the Season” guide for those far from home and bought all my gifts for family online.

Luckily there was no time to lament the differences! Everyone began cooking up a storm and preparing for the annual Fiesta de la Patronata on December 18th /19th. Our women’s group – MUCACHI accumulated handcrafts to sell including purses, scarves, bags, cushion covers as well as jewelry, garden plants and my peanut brittle (dulce y mani). At the same time people were feverishly preparing the ingredients for tamales – banana leaves, pork and the seasoned masa, and enjoying fiestas in neighboring villages.

We attended a Serenata de la Virgine in neighboring Rivas, but musically speaking I wasn’t touched until we arranged a serenata in our house and invited family and neighbors. Three local guitarists and singers shared their repertoire of traditional songs ranging from flamenco to ranchero. We had some great voices in the audience so the performance couldn’t have been better and we had an evening that stands to be repeated.

So for Christmas Day itself I had pulled a cultural bluff. Whilst having closer to 50 tamales in the fridge I had also bought a turkey and trimmings – turned out to be the most expensive turkey I’ve ever cooked! We had stockings to unpack and mimosas to sip with desayuno. To counter the alcohol we packed up some supplies and hiked high into the hills above our properties to enjoy the fresh mountain breezes on this Christmas Day of 25 degrees! Later we sat down with seven others and ate our fill of traditional Canadian fare and English sherry trifle – a real pot pori of a Christmas!

People keep popping in with more tamales as gifts, we share our Christmas cookies and turkey. I learn that Christmas is yet again far more about how you share your time and gifts with others than it is about what exactly are the ingredients. Sure, I missed out on Christmas crackers, mulled wine and snow filled days, but I did not miss the shopping frenzy, crazy car parks and general stress. Our 3-branch “Christmas Tree” looks fine to me, and though the butterflies look out of place while I listen to carols from Kings College Cambridge – what the hell. It’s Christmas with (some of) those you love that counts.

Happy New Year everyone! Keep reading!

We’ve just had to say good-bye to two terrific volunteers at Proyecto San Gerardo – and our reflections on their time here made me think it was about time I wrote a piece on volunteering in San Gerardo.

Before living here I thought I knew all about volunteering and committees; but I had never lived in a small community that is moreorless self-sufficient when it comes to running itself. I was used to government departments responsible for roads, security, recreation, events, and maintenance. When I arrived here I noticed the plethora of meetings, groups and the activities that flowed from this communal effort. It’s true! Without local volunteers San Gerardo could not function – so everyone does their part and volunteers on committees large and small to make San Gerardo the beautiful place it is. It’s very social too – a wonderful way to meet your neighbours and make new friends, and for me a new way of practicing my Spanish!

On our Get Involved page we focus on four opportunities for volunteering in San Gerardo, but truth be told there are many more. Coming up soon (February 27th) is the Carrera Chirripó (fiesta time!) and many, many volunteers are needed to help with preparing food, selling food and drink, cleaning up and generally ensuring the 4 day event goes on without hassles and without the load on too few shoulders. If you give just a four hour shift you will experience a slice of the real Pura Vida! Working alongside local community members, joking and laughing, your vacation here will be something to remember forever as you make new friends. If you would like to sign up to help out in anyway visit the Get Involved/Carrera Chirripó page and contact us.

Volunteers on projects such as reforestation at Cloudbridge Reserve or teaching with Proyecto San Gerardo are here for longer periods of time, and some of them elect to stay with local families and really experience rural Costa Rica. Rising early and sharing the first cup of coffee, helping out with harvests, picking coffee or playing with the children who inevitably visit: this is a chance to share intimately in the lives of rural ticos. Our volunteers have repeatedly mentioned this as a highlight: “The family was absolutely wonderful and did everything they could to make sure I felt at home” – Amber, 2009

Back to our volunteers who just said good-bye! They were here to teach English at various levels mainly to adults in the community who would like to enter the tourism business but lack language skills. The classes focus on conversation rather than reading and writing, and for many it is their first time back in the classroom for many years as high school education is a comparatively recent acquisition here. Typically shy and nervous about speaking aloud in the eight week course most of the students learned to initiate conversations in English or at least make themselves understood. Says Kevin: “A lot of the students didn’t have the opportunity to go to high school, as they were working from a young age. This made me realize how I had taken my education for granted. All my students were genuinely interested in learning, they were there because they wanted to be there. There is nothing more gratifying for a teacher than to have students who are eager to learn as I was to teach.”

We finished the session that also included computer skills classes, with a graduating party for everyone. Over 80 people turned out: students and their parents, homestay families, teachers and community supporters. It was great to see the pride with which each student received their certificates and hear how 100% want to come back again in the new year when we resume classes.

Volunteering is always a two-way streak. People, communities, the environment benefit when others donate their skills, creativity and time. But those same volunteers benefit immeasurably from the welcome they receive here in San Gerardo and the lessons for life than can be drawn from living in the community. Soon we will be expanding our volunteer recruitment to include arts and crafts teachers for a new women’s group, and we are always on the lookout for First Aid instructors, as well as our core ESL and computer skills teachers.

So ‘Gracias’ to all our volunteers and host families of the past three years, as well as the community for supporting volunteers here in San Gerardo. Last word to one of our volunteers:

“The two months that I stayed in San Gerardo was a once in a lifetime chance to experience a culture from the inside rather than viewing it from the outside in the traditional tourist sense …I am sure I will stay in touch with my family and the friends I have made in San Gerardo, and I thank Proyecto San Gerardo for giving me the opportunity to volunteer” – Jed, 2009

So here we are in the dead of winter: doesn’t look too bad to me if you can handle brilliant sunshine every morning, same old boring warm temperatures and bananas, oranges and anones literally dropping off the trees! True, there’s more rain, but only after a daily Vitamin D dose that makes hiking and visiting still pleasurable.

October – Cerro Chirripó is closed for maintenance so the tourists here need to find something g else to do. Here’s my favourite list to help you decide to visit San Gerardo:

1. Cloudbridge Reserve – is open all year round and requires no reservations but likewise offers incredible vistas and trails including spectacular waterfalls and the chance to see monkeys, quetzals, motmots and peccaries if you are up early and have keen eyes. The Reserve was created to preserve the cloud forest and protect the flora and fauna as well as offer opportunities for scientists to study rare species, including I just learned the quinine tree! To reach Cloudbridge hike about 2 km up the hill from the centre of San Gerardo (the Chuma), past the Uran Hotel and Casa Mariposa. Alternatively you can leave your vehicle c lose to the Uran Hotel and just hike the last part to the entrance.
Cost: Entrance is free but please leave a donation to assist with upkeep.
Time needed: allow minimum of 2 hours to enjoy your hike.
Difficulty: easier than Chirripó but realize that there are lots of inclines!

2. Aguas Termales – the hot springs are located on the other side of San Gerardo, on the road to Herradura. What a great way to relax after your Cloudbridge hike! There are 2 pools open from 7am – 5:30p.m. daily at a cost of $5.00 per person ($3.00 for nationals) The resort also provides a restaurant, snacks, and cabins should you wish to sleep over. To reach the hot springs park your car (unless it’s 4-wheel drive) at the Parqueo de Rosas on the left hand side of the road to Herradura, just 200m before the road up to the hot springs. Hike up the new road to the hot springs is about 10 – 15 minutes depending on fitness – but you will sure love those springs when you get there!

3. Horseback Riding – one of the very best ways to explore this mountainous terrain is on horseback. Even if you don’t really know how to ride the local ponies are docile enough for anyone and you can arrange for a guide to take you to view Cloudbridge, the coffee plantations or circle the neighboring villages. Various locals rent out ponies but you can try Don Luis at the Roca Dura, or the Chavez family. For more information drop me a line via the Contact Form.

4. Jardines Secretos – on the corner of the road to Herradura and beside the bridge over the Rio Blanco these gardens have become famous to plant experts and plant lovers alike. Don Klaus planted the garden and when he is in town his knowledge and obvious love for his garden is worth the walk around the garden alone. At other times Don Blanco can walk you around, or you can do the self-guided tour. There are waterways and small lagoons with fish and water birds, a mirador to look out over the garden and the valley and virtually thousands of tropical species.
Open: Mon to Sat, 8am–4pm
Cost: $3 per person
Difficulty: low

5. Bird watching – no cost, just bring your glasses and bird book. San Gerardo is famed for bird lovers and at anytime you can be sure to spot some of the most exotic: scarlet tanagers, siete colores, mot mots, emerald toucan and the red breasted aracaris, the occasional hawk and woodpeckers. October is a great month to bird watch since the fruit trees in everyone’s gardens attract them feeding so a wander around the village is often enough! For other good viewing points try the Talamanca Reserve, along the Rio Blanco and the Hotel Pelicano.

6. And if it’s wet…
…there’s always the Swiss Cheese Factory in Canaan (just 2 km back down the road from San Gerardo) where mature cheeses like Emmental and Gruyere are lovingly made from local sweet milk.
… savour a beer at the Pelicano Hotel and take in the odd but fascinating wood carvings in the dining room or check your email on Wi-Fi
…organic coffee for sale just west of Chimirrol on the main road to San Isidro. Ask to take a tour and find out exactly what it takes to claim your coffee is organically grown.

That’s it! Of course on weekends the library is open and football matches playing on most Sundays, or try your hand at trout fishing set amongst a wonderful orchid collection at Los Cocolisos (on the road to the Chespa) Saturdays and Sundays. Or play pool at the pulperia with local youth.

Chirripó closed? No problem! There’s so much to do!

Independence Day celebrations here in Costa Rica are definitely worth blogging about. September 15 happens to be the anniversary when almost all Central American countries celebrate their independence: Guatemala, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica.

The tradition goes that a torch is lit in Guatemala City and carried throughout the towns and villages of Central America, and throughout Costa Rica. On Monday 14th the torch reached our local town: San Isidro de General, and traveled up the long road to San Gerardo de Rivas via Guadeloupe, Chimirol, Canaan to our Salon Comunal.

During the day the school children made faroles – little wooden or cardboard houses to represent their homes, containing a candle and mounted on a pole. At 5:30 p.m. as it grew dark, we all came together and the children paraded their faroles around the plaza, singing the traditional songs for 15 de setiembre: “Himno de 15 de setiembre”, “La Patriotica Costariciense” and “La Diana”. In the Salon there were traditional dances performed by the children, and stories retold of how Costa Rica attained its independence and the flag and the crest came into being. The torches traveled home with everyone as tired and ready for the holiday the next day everyone dispersed.

At 5:30 a.m. on September 15th itself the children assembled in the School and sang “La Diana” once again. It was a very special opportunity for everyone to display a pride in their country and their traditions.
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Grupo Wak Tsuri in San Gerardo de Rivas

Gilberth Dondi assists with First Aid Instruction

During the same week Proyecto San Gerardo helped out with a group of Guides and Scouts (girls and boys) from all over southern Costa Rica who came to San Gerardo to practice their skills in anticipation of a national competition in Guanacaste in December.

They came to San Gerardo to work with Gilberth Dondi – an adventurer and volunteer known throughout the country for his outdoor skills in rafting, kayaking, mountaineering and survival. ‘Dondi’ is a Red Cross volunteer of some 30 years and is called upon regularly to lead rescue operations for downed planes in the remote mountain ranges, or coordinate disaster responses, such as the recent earthquake near Alajuela (January 2009). He was joined by Red Cross instructor Jorge Flores and group leader Mercedes Vázquez.

In San Gerardo the youth practiced their life saving skills including mountain rescue – rappelling, how to improvise stretchers, splints and bandages in the wild, and other survival skills. Proyecto San Gerardo was happy to provide the mannequins for CPR practice and we aim to work together to provide more First Aid and Disaster Preparedness training to the community in the future.

After three months of extensive work we are happy to announce some great changes to this website that will help YOU, the traveler, plan your trip to Cerro Chirripó and help you find the information you need.

We have updated all our pages regarding hotels, activities, and events. This includes specific services by hotels, hours of operation, prices etc. New photos have been added to introduce you to San Gerardo de Rivas and the amazing wildlife and panoramic views as well as help you with your decision-making.

NEW features:

• A search engine on the homepage – we realize we’ve grown and it’s not so easy to remember where you found the little gem of information you discovered last time you visited the site!
• Information for potential athletes wishing to participate in the Carrera Chirripó! Many of the 225 participants will come from around the world and finding information on dates, registration processes etc is vital – just click the link from the homepage and voila!
• Climbing Mt Chirripó. Many web visitors tell us it’s hard to book their hike on Chirripó. Here’s the lowdown on what to do – though early planning is strongly advised as daily visitors to the park are restricted. Visit the Activities/Actividades page and click on Chirripó National Park to find out more.
• Volunteer opportunities. Many visitors to San Gerardo decide to stay on, or are looking for a volunteer opportunity. Under Get Involved/Participe you will now find four organizations looking for volunteers of various kinds. Contact the group directly or send a question to this website.
• Tour Guides. This website is actively supporting certified tour guides in San Gerardo so we have devoted a page to introducing two guides to visitors. Both guides have significant local experience and you can take my word are very well worth the cost of hiring local expertise to enhance your trip. Go to Activities/Actividades and click on Tour Guides.
• New information about Gardens in San Gerardo. There are now three independent gardens you can visit each of which has their own specialty. Click on Activities/Actividades – Gardens to find out more.
• San Gerardo is actively engaged in supporting our fragile environment, conserving the treasures we have here and developing sustainable tourism. Check out the new pages for Bandera Azul Ecologica and Caturcochi – two organizations helping San Gerardo recycle, conserve, educate youth and provide environmentally conscious tourism to our visitors. Both pages can be found under About San Gerardo.
• The Village Store! Where can I buy juice, cooking gas, phone cards, munchies etc at all hours. Answer: the Pulperia! Don Ulises is there to help you and you can practice your Spanish! Look for information in the same section: About San Gerardo.
• Services/Information – this is a new section devoted to posting notices from within the community for visitors and residents. Let us know if you have something you want to sell, or buy, rent or lease – if your organization is holding a meeting or there’s a notice. Free to residents there’s a small charge for visitors.
• Pictures galore! We’ve updated many of the Photo galleries and posted way more pictures – enjoy!

This wonderful website has grown from a small tourist site to becoming a tool for community development in San Gerardo. The site belongs to the community and the author would like to thank the community for all the information posted, and especially Siobahn Gallagher and Sonia Padilla who helped in local gathering. Above all thanks to the amazing Ian Mackenzie whose technical and creative assistance has made this website what it is.

Enjoy – and please send feedback – if you find an error, if there’s a mistake in translation – we want to hear it all – plus heaps of praise of course!

Pura Vida!

¿Usted está buscando una oportunidad voluntaria en Costa Rica? Proyecto San Gerardo necesita a los profesores de la computadora para un mínimo estancia de 6 semanas.

¡Si usted habla español y podría enseñar a habilidades básicas del teclado y del programa entonces queremos oír de usted! La prima sería una cierta experiencia en la enseñanza o el entrenamiento.

Nuestro curso de computadora pasado era un gran éxito y esperamos continuar. Todos nuestros voluntarios deliran sobre su tiempo en San Gerardo y las familias maravillosas que permanecían con.

Compruebe hacia fuera más información en la página PARTICIPE, y utilice la FORMA del CONTACTO para conseguir en tacto y le enviaremos por correo electrónico un paquete sobre esta oportunidad única en Costa Rica.

Are you looking for a volunteer opportunity in Costa Rica? Proyecto San Gerardo needs computer teachers for a minimum 6 week stay.

If you speak Spanish (a must) and could teach basic keyboarding and program skills then we want to hear from you! Bonus would be some experience in teaching or training.

Our last computer course was a great success and we hope to continue. All our volunteers rave about their time in San Gerardo and the wonderful families they stayed with.

Check out more information on the GET INVOLVED page, and use the CONTACT FORM to get in touch and we will email you a package about this unique opportunity in Costa Rica.

It is with great sadness I am passing a note from Jenny Giddy to say that Ian Giddy, her husband and joint founder with Jenny of Cloudbridge Reserve near Mt Chirripó and San Gerardo de Rivas, passed away on Sunday June 14th after fighting cancer for some time.

Everyone in San Gerardo knew Ian and the passion he brought to conserving the natural beauty of Costa Rica.

Jenny says:

“Ian’s life and actions touched so many people, and in his intense short life, he was like a shooting star that illuminated a path for those who chose to follow him. So many students benefited from his lectures, so many young researchers gained their experience in the field at Cloudbridge or Wildcliff. Countless animals, birds and plants have a home thanks to his vision. A devoted father, and loving husband, his energy and lust for life were a source of amazement to all who knew him. Constantly challenging all of us in his circle, he demanded a high standard of behavior and achievement not only from us, but mainly from himself. His loss is too deeply felt for adequate expression”

A Memorial Service is being held for Ian this Saturday, June 20th, in New York State. Jenny mentions that in lieu of flowers, Ian would have appreciated donations to the not-for-profit:
Cloud Forest Conservation Alliance (CFCA) P O Box 247, Rhinecliff, NY 12574
(This not-for-profit organization supports the nature reserve in Costa Rica, “Cloudbridge”, which Ian founded.)

Ian has touched San Gerardo in ways few others can aspire to – he will be sorely missed. Here are a few anecdotes from his friends in San Gerardo:

In Loving Memory of our Friend Ian

An Old Dog’s Best Friend!
There are so many great stories about Ian and Genevieve that it’s hard to pick just a few. My favorite memories have to do with how kind Ian was to all animals; he’d go from explaining a very complex issue about biodiversity, to halting when a furry creature crossed his path, stopping to give it some attention, scratching the belly, and words of encouragement to visit him again. Although Tom and I were always excited to have Genevieve and Ian visit, our excitement level was nothing compared to that of our 14 year old, 120 lb. dog, Gallileo, who looked upon Ian as if he was a GOD. We always knew when Ian was coming up the pathway to our home, because Gallileo would be jumping up in the air (as best he could manage due to his full-figure), pacing back and forth frantically along his fence line. Ian seemed to commiserate with Gallileo, and within seconds of seeing each other, they would be doing wrestling stunts that would put the World Wrestling Federation to shame! All the tumbling, grass stains, fur flying (Gallileo’s too), and Ian never seemed to mind getting dirty. And sweet Genevieve, who would be there to do the repairs afterwards, always just enjoyed the spectacle, but when strangers were around, I don’t think she readily admitted that that was her husband out there, rolling around with a mutt can’t blame her! Ian will be missed greatly, and we’ll try to honor him by continuing with the wrestling when we can muster up the energy and strength (it’ll be hard to fill Ian’s shoes). – Tom & Amy Gode

New friends
I remember our first time meeting Ian, he came into the casa with Joe (a researcher) totally covered in mud, sweat, scratches and blood from a short cut he was sure would be easier than taking the trail. It turned out to be primarily mora/blackberry shrubs. He was tired and looked at Genevieve and said “did we know they were coming?” After a shower and chat he invited us to stay in the casita and hike all of the trails over the next week. And we did and in the process we became friends hiking and exploring Cloudbridge together. Tom & Amy Gode

Ian Saves My Life
One of our adventures was attempting to hike down cabrada verde, Ian not one for taking no for an answer decided we could probably slide down a log when the stream narrowed to sheer rock faces on both sides and a 6-7 metre drop appeared in front of us. In the process of checking out the possibility I slipped and went over the edge only to have my t-shirt snag on a small knot on the log and find myself suspended upside down by my shirt and no way to reach anything. Ian who was on the wrong side of the log needed to go back upstream in order to cross the log and reach me. Eventually Ian was able to reach me and get me back to safe ground. Several cracked ribs and a variety of bruises later we agreed that it might be safer to go upstream the next time we tried it. Tom Gode

The Photo
Late one afternoon I stopped by the casa and Ian and I were talking and having a glass of wine when all of a sudden he jumped up and said “come see”. He had been down the road and heard a bird hit a window at a neighbors house, the bird appeared dead, but knowing that many would come to after a while he had placed it in his hat and carried it home. When he opened his hat sure enough the bird had come to and though not ready to fly yet he sat on Ian’s shoulder. Sometime later Genevieve and Amy returned and were amazed to see the bird on Ian’s shoulder, I’m not sure that the amazement was the bird sitting on his shoulder or that Ian had sat in one place for more than a few minutes. The bird spent the evening on Ian, climbing around, pecking his ears and pulling on his hair. That night Genevieve said you can not bring that bird to bed, so Ian placed it out on the balcony and in the morning it was still there. Returning the bird to his shoulder he had breakfast and then placed it out on other porch where it sat until the sunshine hit it and it flew away. Tom & Amy Gode

For more information on his legacy go to: www.cloudbridge.org

One of the most obvious attractions when visiting San Gerardo are the amazing varieties of birds – their resplendent plumage and captivating birdcall from dawn to dusk. I’ll never forget on the first trip seeing a neighbour’s bird feeder table piled high with bananas, and visiting every minute or two the scarlet and black tanagers with their equally beautiful but different mates, the “siete colores” – all azul blue, green, yellow, black white…and finches – yellow ones and budgerigar blue.

Another time we ran straight into an emerald toucan, sitting only a few feet above our heads in a tree in the Talamanca Reserve. It didn’t move – I was sure it was fake! Plastic or something! But after zapping photo after photo it leisurely took off and I was left with that “Ahhhhhhhhhhh” feeling – the one you get when you know you have just had an experience you’ll never forget.

Now I am here through the seasons I am able to observe the birds more thoroughly and get to know their feeding patterns; who’s around and who’s taken off. So a week ago, when a flock of parakeets landed on a fruit tree outside my kitchen window I felt I’d won the lottery! I should explain – for some reason I dote on parakeets – I call them paraquetes but the real name here is periquito (I just never learned it and the other one has stuck!). From my first visits flocks of sulpher-winged parakeets would fly over in early morning calling their unique parroty type song one to another as they found their favourite fruit trees. Then on one visit to San Jose my partner and I found scores of them in the parks and surrounding roofs of buildings – a bit like exotic pigeons! Their brilliant green and yellow plumage light up my day and to have them right outside my window is such a treat.

Toucans – they rob other nests of eggs and can attack small monkeys and other birds with no remorse. But they are indeed beautiful. A gang of them have been hanging out along the riverside outside my house for the past two months. Twice we also saw the Aracari – a yellow and red toucan with a bill to match his cousins but much taller and dramatic in his colourings.

Little birds – tanagers are like sparrows here, kiskadees – brilliant yellow underbody and distinctive calls, are common. There’s hummingbirds (colibris) of every colour that come in the house if you aren’t careful, and a pair of honeycreepers that visit regularly. The key of course is to share your fruit – bananas, plantain, oranges, mango and guayaba – as well as those tiny fruit I have no clue are worth eating but the birds love. This keeps the little birds coming back day after day.

Of course San Gerardo is also a great place to spot quetzals – especially in Cloudbridge Reserve (www.cloudbridge.org), Motmots perched majestically, Bellbirds, and hawks (gavilan) of many varieties. The abundance of insects means that carpinteros (woodpeckers) are easy to spot and the rivers have kingfishers and swallows. I hope some keen ornithologists will add to this list – and I encourage you to visit the website of Glenn Bartley (www.glennbartley.com) who spent considerable time here in San Gerardo photographing the birds with fabulous results.

Tour guides in San Gerardo are prepared to lead individuals or groups wanting to bird-watch and photograph. Whether you want to take on a strenuous hike to encounter birds of the cloud forest, or want to identify all the colourful birds of riverside and finca, your holiday will be enhanced with a knowledgeable guide. Contact us here to help you arrange your visit!

Sugar comes in 1lb packets – right? Not always. Here it comes in blocks of delicious caramel coloured dulce wrapped in cane leaves and tied with twine made from banana leaf. It’s commonly used to make agua dulce a warm comfort drink for the cold evenings, but it can be used the same as sugar in recipes.

Dulce is produced from sugar cane and made locally in what is called a trapiche. The trapiche is a sugar mill that extracts the sugary sap from the cane which is then boiled for hours and hours to produce dulce. Last week I visited the trapiche and found a fascinating part of Costa Rican history alive and thriving today.

At 5a.m. my partner is already rounding up the two oxen (bueyes) who will drive the mill. The great black beasts are moody – some days they come willingly and work the two to three hours needed to extract enough cane juice for the day; other times they toss their great horned heads and fight every inch. At the ancient trapiche they are leashed to a wooden halter and they walk a circle around the sugar extractor while the cane is pushed through and the juice flows into a receptacle at an amazing rate.

The existing mill was bought and installed in the 70’s, though the structure of the trapiche, made of local wood and thatched, dates back to 1948 when my partner’s father, Blas Monge and a neighbour Raphael Vargas, built the trapiche. More amazing are the moldes and canoas (moulds and literally canoes or containers for the dulce when it is ready for the moulds) that are over 60 years old.

The sugar is heated by a vast oven below the cauldron that gets up to 4000 degrees – fired by wood and cane waste, which must be kept at the same temperature all day. Wood is harvested from fallen trees or prunings, and the cane waste not used for the fire can be fed to the oxen, or horses and goats, or used to make dry pathways when there is rain.

The whole process lasts about 10 hours, but can take longer if the outside temperature drops and the sugar takes longer to boil to the right consistency. Along the way the sugar changes from one state to another – there is espuma literally foam that floats on the surface of the sugar. Everyone loves to eats this frothy sugar, almost as much as they enjoy drinking pure cane juice and eating the dulce straight from the cauldron! (Please don’t tell your dentist!) Like all sugar products the dulce reaches ‘crack’ – a temperature where it is brittle and delicious to suck like hard toffee. And of course we all enjoy this too. But the process is far from complete – hours more of boiling is needed to reduce the liquid to the granular consistency needed for sale as dulce – hours of steam and heat and back breaking stirring.

At about 3pm the dulce is ready. It is first poured into the canoa to cool and solidify a little, and then is poured with a pan into the moulds that look the same size as flower pots. In less than 5 minutes the dulce can be popped out of the moulds on to a fresh bed of cane, then wrapped in packs of 4 in cane leaves and tied with the banana twine. The dulce is sold at the pulperia (local store) or in person to regular customers. I come home with 4 fresh batches to make peanut brittle and coconut ice. Who said I had a sweet tooth?

A visit to the trapiche is a glimpse into Costa Rica’s past. Most of the ox-driven trapiches have disappeared and the techniques involved in hand-making dulce along with them. If you visit San Gerardo and want to tour the trapiche, savor a little dulce or take home some locally made candy let me know via the Contact Form on this website. We would be delighted to share the history, and the sweetness, with you too!

So, like everyone else here in rural Costa Rica we begin to grow more food for our own plates, and surplus to sell at the market. There’s a covered nursery for the seedlings: sweet peppers (chile) celery (apio) green beans (vinicas) lettuce (lechuga) and cilantro amongst others. One minute they are seeds, the next they sprout at a tremendous rate! It’s true! Stick almost anything in the soil here and it blossoms. The abundance is gratifying and truly amazing. We are overrun with cilantro and eat two lettuces at each sitting!

We break out two new vegetable gardens (not called gardens – jardines – here, those are strictly for flowers). The hard stony soil is broken up with shear force and sweat. Under the boiling sun it’s hot even to assist with raking and weeding. Once the raised beds are formed we alternately sow green beans and more cilantro. This is going to be for the market – the feria, in San Isidro on Thursdays and Fridays. The other garden is planted out with mature seedlings: celery, peppers, green beans and some herbs I covet (basil, oregano and romero). Uphill we plant rows and rows of onions and beans. New plantain and bananas are transplanted and we dream of more avocado trees and possibly tomatoes.

At the end of the coffee season we kept some back for ourselves – to support our own coffee habit with café puro and save as well. There isn’t much this year, maybe next – what I have in abundance is bananas! What to do with them all? They mature very fast and I can’t spend every day making banana bread so the birds share. We hang them outside the window and every morning while I shower I can watch scarlet tanagers, emerald toucan and blue, yellow and green birds as yet unknown to me, take their turns and gorge on banana. It’s way better than TV!